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I have some old and very slow studio lights (CF-D300’s from Viewfinder) so I thought I’d try some tests.

Pocket Wizard III’s can do it, and so can the Yongnuo YN622N triggers I use on my Nikon Speedlights. A number of radio trigger systems based on the 2.4GHz frequency are fast enough to do this. All we need then, is a way of delaying the shutter operation. If we open and close the shutter at the exact right time, after the initial peak of light, and just use the tail-off, it’ll be pretty even across the frame. Big old long duration studio lights have a long tail of light that takes a while to die away. If you need more power, you can always tape more Speedlights together, however sometimes its more convenient to use one big light: you can configure it quicker and use all manner of modifiers on big lights. We know we can use compatible Speedlights for this with High Speed Sync (HSS pulses the light to share it out over the entire shutter operation – to act like a bright continuous light) however this is only possible with certain Speedlights. Sure you may be able to light the subject in such a way that they are dominated by flash, and use a regular x-sync compatible shutter speed to freeze your subject with fast flash, however to get them completely frozen, you’ll need to freeze all the light with a high speed shutter – say 1/4000th of a second. Ok, so if you want to freeze action outside using both sunlight and flash, you’ll need to use a high shutter speed to freeze those parts of the subject that are lit by the sun – as its a continuous source.